The first time in Bali is like going to the first class
One day you will come to a small city at the ocean. And, looking at those who surf every day on the beach at your hotel, you also want to try it. There will be something very attractive in these people with eyes of the colour of a sea wave, in their smiles, in how the wind gets tangled in burnt out hair, in joy and calm on their faces. And for a second you also want to become one of them.
Maybe you even do it: you go beyond dreams, and really sign up for a surf school. And you curse this day, painfully raking for the twentieth time to the line-up, falling from the board, getting it in the face, and sobbing with fatigue - under the implacable "Row, damn it!" from the instructor. What the hell joy is it, , where does peace come from ... Probably, on that fateful day, you went over “Margarita” in the bar, and everybody around you begins to look kind and beautiful. No, you don’t drink ...
And then you catch it, your first wave. The body itself will understand something about balance, and about inertia, and about speed, and will stand on the board at the right time in the right place, and in the right position. And you will understand something important about the physics and geometry of happiness when you get out of the water. And during your first flight in the wave you will just feel it. And the memory of this sensation will pull you into the waves, into this zone of discomfort again and again because only in this zone we can grow enough to take off.