Ru

The Surfer Code by Sean Thomson

Sean Thomson is known for his innovation in pipe-riding and with his back to the wave. He became the champion of the Gunston 500 competition in South Africa, then won the International World Surf Tour. He starred in 50 videos about surfing. The Outdoor Life Network series of documentaries was filmed with his participation. Sean co-starred in the famous movie "In Gods Hands".

Thomson and his co-author Patrick Moser described 12 real-life stories from Californian surfers at Anacapa in their book “The Code”.

These stories became the Surfer Code:

  • I will never turn my back on the ocean -  The ocean is unpredictable and you always need to be on alert.
  • I will always paddle back out
  • I will take the drop with commitment
  • I will know that there will always be another wave
  • I will realize that all surfers are joined by one ocean
  • I will paddle around the impact zone                              
  • I will never fight a rip tide
  • I will watch out for other surfers after a big set
  • I will pass on my stoke to a non-surfer
  • I will ride, and not paddle in to shore
  • I will catch a wave every day, even in my mind
  • I will honor the sport of kings
Share:
Freemocean is a project of exclusive author's travels under the auspices of Friends & Family, combining people with the same level of values. We sell not just travels, we create metamorphosis and unforgettable impressions.
ближайшие путешествия задать вопрос

Read more

Awareness of the transience of life brings dynamism to it
6.12.2018
Awareness of the transience of life brings dynamism to it
Remembering death means living for real...
Read more
7 Travel Housing Life-hacks
26.02.2019
7 Travel Housing Life-hacks
We share our favorite ways to book a suitable accommodation...
Read more
Myths and legends of Bali, part one
26.12.2018
Myths and legends of Bali, part one
We will tell you about the categories of characters that go to Bali, without bothering with an elementary search for information in Google and...
Read more